Helambu Warm Up.
What better way to kick my year off than something completely different. A trip to Nepal to run the legendary Annapurna circuit. But by way of a warm up I thought I would take on the apparently more.. "moderate" Helambu trail.
I have always wanted to go to Nepal - the mountain kingdom with the triangle flag. The world's highest peaks are the obvious draw but the tumultuous politics, broad mix of peoples and the strangely tolerant religious situation have also always intrigued. After years of looking at it on page 29 of my Atlas I decided that it was time to book a ticket and experience it for myself.
As usual things didn't start as planned! I arrived in Kathmandu bagless and bedecked in my flight outfit of rolled up jeans, white trainers and Indy Fab tee-shirt - hardly the appropriate gear in which to face the melee! However as soon as I jumped in the tiny Suzuki taxi and entered the mayhem I felt entirely comfortable - if a touch detached.
In fact it was more than detachment; I felt anesthetized. There were slums, children scavenging in tips, excessive pollution and people brandishing Maoist flags on the top of public buses; but I had seen much of this before and as a seasoned hand I got on with first priorities; finding food and accommodation.
Cut to 5 days later and I am six hours into my bus journey from the end of the Helambu circuit back to the capital. In that time we have covered a mere 50km but instead of bringing frustration Nepal for me has suddenly opened up.
It was the dust that hit me. One minute I was in beautiful untouched mountain terrain and then there were people standing in the road masks donned in order to save their lungs. Yet the sheer diversity and contrasts ranged much further... the Sherpa people with their mountain life had changed to Indian looking people farming on terraces in sweltering heat and now by the bus as the area became more urban it was a sale of the century as dust covered articles of every shape and size were on show.
Yet despite these contrasts there were some constants that and made you think; on the one hand almost all were working flat out just to stand still but on the other almost all did so smiling and laughing. So to the Helambu Circuit.
The Helambu covers about 50 miles between Sundaijal and Timbu. It crosses fantastic lowland mountain scenery with glimpses of the high Himalaya as you jump from village to village. best of all it is not a popular trail so the be-sticked guided groups were few and far between.
I arrived at the start of the trail by taxi as it was only half an hour or so from the capital. It was Saturday late afternoon and after grabbing some bananas I was off. An 800 metre vertical ascent primarily on steps kicked things off and after passing day trippers from the city I quickly found myself getting to where I wanted to be; running alone in the world's largest mountain range. The contrast to Kathmandu was stark - surrounded by green trees and great terraces I could breathe again. That first day was over in flash and at Chisopani I met with other like minded souls at a 40 pence a night lodge. It was time to be introduced to Dhal Bhat.
Once you hit the Himalaya the meat situation goes into reverse gear and its vegetarian all the way. For a venerable carnivore such as myself such a situation always brings concern. However the Nepalese have concocted a tasty dish with everything one could need for a day out in the hills. Dhal, Vegatable curry and rice with a little pickle if you ask nicely.. and once finished it comes around again and again and again .. sometimes in more ways than one.
I decided to push from Chisopani to Therapati in one hit. At about 30 miles it was going to be a big run. What I hadn't counted on was the climbing - it transpired that there was well over 3,500 metres of vertical ascent! Down and up the little touched route was hard to follow but after an hour I was on track bringing interest at a tiny tea stop cum school as I ran in.
From then on it was bit between the teeth stuff as the trail climbed thousands of what seemed like centuries old stone steps. By mid morning I was atop the first pass at 2600 metres prayer flags marking the moment and the High Himalaya looking at me from afar. Pushing on things got tougher as the elevation steadily increased and my legs became heavier. Come 3 o'clock I had finally cleared fabulous Lord of the Rings Forests and was not only over 3,000 metres but above the clouds running to the finish... three days of trek knocked off in one.
Now the sherpa people are known for their keeness to drink. With the convergence of the Langtang and Helambu trails at Therapati there were a number of porters and guides that were keen to re-aquaint themselves with not only with each other but also with the delights of "Mustang Whiskey." Despite a noisy start to proceedings by 11pm things had quietened off. It would transpire that this premature wind down was for one reason alone : a lack of meat.
If inebriated and pushed hard it is rare for me to say no to a little late night meat and it would appear the sherpas are just the same. It transpired that each of the rudimentary lodges at the pass was visited and then questioned as to meat availability. The best offer was 20US dollars for a chicken and this in a country where well over 50% live on less than a dollar a day. The guys had decided that the price was too steep and also the process too complex; what with the chicken being alive.
From Therapati on I took it easy I could complete the six day trek in three even with a nice stroll! I joined a young French Canadian Alex and his guide Gombu. This was great as it was not only recovery but also good company and insight into the region.
That evening I thanked Gompa with some rum. The 53 year old duly poured out the full (small) bottle into a glass and topped it up with about a teaspoon of hot water.The final part of the trail took me into the sweltering lower reaches of the Himalayan foothills, into rice fields, terraces, sticky forests and colourful gardens. It was a perfect introduction to back country Nepal without the crowds and gave me confidence for the challenge of the Annapurna ahead with its longer distance, colder temperatures and looming pass.
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